• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

G-80 Limited Slip Differential Bearing Questions G80 Locker

yamahapro

Keepin it classy!
Joined
Sep 15, 2008
Location
Oxnard
Hey everyone, I picked up this G80 the other day and I took it home with the ring gear on it. I wanted to swap the ring gear and was assuming I shouldn't damage the shield on the back of the differential. So I attempted to remove the bearings and that turned into a disaster. I had to buy a special bearing puller tool and it still didnt work. I used a ton of heat with an oxy acetylene torch and it didn't move at all. I did some research and found out that if your going to attempt that, it needs to be in a press. The other option is to score and break the bearing, which is what I am going to do now. My question is should I just have cut the shield off to gain access to the bolts? Then left the original bearings alone and put it in my car? How important is that shield? Because its looking to be not worth saving.

 
I always cut the shield and used the old bearings. Never had a problem. I used tin snips, snip, snip, snip. Done. Then turn upside down and use hammer to hammer dat gear off. I used something on the edge of the gear to then be able to hit that with hammer. A drift. Air impact the bolts off first of course. Hurry... Oh dat shield is I think susposed to be an anti oil splatter shield. Only important if you think it matters. It don't matter to me!
 
Last edited:
Did you give it a little shock therapy as you used the bearing puller? Sometimes works for me when pulling stuck bearings or pulleys.
 
Just cut the old bearings off. Mark the shims to the corresponding side.

Put the shims back where you found them, press on new bearings, assemble and then measure backlash and do a tooth pattern check with marking compound. You should be good to go.

I've setup differentials and made my mistakes and learned tricks. I've been training using different tools and methods. I recommend watching YouTube videos on differential rebuilding/setup. I have a test coming up on the subject and did hours of studying yesterday using factory training resources and the internet.
 
Last edited:
Did you give it a little shock therapy as you used the bearing puller? Sometimes works for me when pulling stuck bearings or pulleys.
I was thinking of that but I said why not just cut the dam thing off! I had heated it up so much, the hardened metal was glowing red. And it didnt budge with hand tools. I could have tried an impact gun but I just didnt care to brake something in my face..
 
Just cut the old bearings off. Mark the shims to the corresponding side.

Put the shims back where you found them, press on new bearings, assemble and then measure backlash and do a tooth pattern check with marking compound. You should be good to go.

I've setup differentials and made my mistakes and learned tricks. I've been training using different tools and methods. I recommend watching YouTube videos on differential rebuilding/setup. I have a test coming up on the subject and did hours of studying yesterday using factory training resources and the internet.
O shoot you think those shims were different sizes? I assumed because there was only one on each side that they were the same LOL
 
I ended up cutting the races with a dremel and cracking them with a chizel. came right off after that. Seems pretty inevitable unless you have that special tool or your willing to cut the shield. That shield also acts as a shim.
 
You might want to consider telling the new owner which parts you got red hot. Depending on how hot they got and how they cooled down, they may no longer be hard anymore, or they may be too hard. Metallurgy is fun and either extreme can make things fail.
 
LOCK COVER. Got it.

My material says the bolts are left handed thread. (Modern trucks)

On the dana powr-lok, the bolts holding the two sections together are reverse/left hand thread. The ring gear bolts should be 'normal'/right hand thread on the volvo dana-30-esque rear ends. I haven't touched one of those in years, though, so could someone verify?

I definitely cut that thin plate off after bending it out of the way to remove the ring gear from a G80 before.

On my powr-lok, one or both of the carrier bearings had spun on the snout on the carrier where they are pressed, so mikeP dinged some knurling into the surface and pressed bearings on. So if you ding that surface with a chisel breaking off an old bearing, it probably shouldn't matter at all.
 
Back
Top