• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

how to "properly" install freeze plugs

I usually tap them in with a properly sized socket, or bearing race and then use a centering cone from a balancer to apply outward pressure into the sealing surface.

Mine are leaking a bit right now from when my HG went. I havent cared to replace them because it is slow enough I only have to top off once a month, and I get free top offs from my shop supplies at the dealership. When I get a decent break in school I will probably take the time to remove the manifold and replace them.
 
I seem to remember a few years ago that engine having two of the plugs already replaced. Iirc the front two plgs look a lot newer and cleaner for a reason.
 
thelostartof said:
I seem to remember a few years ago that engine having two of the plugs already replaced. Iirc the front two plgs look a lot newer and cleaner for a reason.
Click to expand...

true dat, but as far as I can tell, only 1-2 are leaking now...

oh wait, did you mean "3 and 4" when you said "3/4" as opposed to 75%?

yeh, 3 and 4 need to be replaced on the intake side.
 
The 'Proper' way to install a freeze plug is to dip it in dry ice (or put in a deep freeze) for 10-20 min then slide in. While warming up to ambient temp of the block, tap them directly on center with a ballpene hammer.

The thermal expansion will keep them in good and tight.

If you do it this way they won't come out or leak unless the block actually freezes, as long as the plug holes are clean and not sanded to a larger diameter than they should be.

Often failures come from after a rusty plug is removed and the hole cleaned out with emery or scotchbrite and then the warm plug put into a warm (same temp) hole. Fail all the time.

They should not be banged in, nor pressed in, but should expand into the hole as the special thermally expandable plug metal enlarges to a size it attains when at ambient to operating temps. If the ambient temps are always at or below freezing, then the plug must be much colder when installed.

In warmer climates you can get away with ambient temp installation, but if it gets near freezing, watch out!

I have seen issues with supposedly the correct freeze plugs from and aftermarket supplier work loose or leak in a Volvo block and these are the 'same' dimensions and sizes as many American V8 plugs, but they are not the same when it comes to being sure they won't leak, so get them from Volvo.
 
Darrel Waltrip Volvo informed me the dish style for my '88 245 are no longer available. I'm testing a rubber plug this week.
 
i did some freeze plugs recently and i put them in with some 3m yellow snot adhesive stuff. i was told in the past that it works real well to seal the plugs by the 87 year old guy that runs the machine shop. he's been working on engines for like 60 years.
 
500dollar744ti said:
i did some freeze plugs recently and i put them in with some 3m yellow snot adhesive stuff. i was told in the past that it works real well to seal the plugs by the 87 year old guy that runs the machine shop. he's been working on engines for like 60 years.
Click to expand...

I've lathered them with Indian Head varnish before just for insurance. I use that on anything coolant related over silicone, goop, JB weld, etc. It holds up nearly forever, 20+ yerars.

I looked at the FCP site and they offer both domed and dish type, and both p/n's are avail from Tasca for under $4 ea
 
psychoelf said:
Darrel Waltrip Volvo informed me the dish style for my '88 245 are no longer available. I'm testing a rubber plug this week.
Click to expand...

NOOOOOOOO!!!!!!

they ARE READILY AVAILABLE from NAPA / CARQUEST / etc!!

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...sg=AFQjCNH_6dvqIc8ENQAJ8kX85opVUlH1bw&cad=rja

I keep a FULL SET in stock and it co$t me all of $21 USFRN for B230f block & head (including
the SURPRISE freeze plug on the BOTTOM SURFACE of the head that you have to yank
the head to replace (go ahead...AMHIKT!! :grrr: )
 
Last edited:
It's been at least four decades since I've had to replace a frost plug but I've seen a few threads here since I joined TB about replacing frost plugs, so are they a problem with Volvos?
 
they can be, but typically only after they've been replaced.. as in the new ones didn't go in right or fit right, etc.
 
if you can avoid taking the originals out, it's best to leave them alone.

sometimes the "proper" way isn't always the best way for the intended purpose. if the "proper" way to a complete rebuild includes replacing freeze plugs and you intend the engine for very high boost, you'll probably find out the hard way that it would have been better left alone.

nothing like 100,000+ miles of heat cycles to seat machine fitted factory freeze plugs.. as opposed to ill-fitting NAPA freeze plugs installed by hammer with whatever socket is available by you or down-the-road motors.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top