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740 M46 Rebuilding cost

eeaves42

eeaves42

Active member
Joined
Mar 12, 2010
Location
King Of Prussia, PA
What have people paid avg to get there m46 totally rebuild?
<a target='_blank' title='ImageShack - Image And Video Hosting' href='http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/43/25849623443271990873252.jpg/'><img src='http://imageshack.us/a/img43/722/25849623443271990873252.jpg' border='0'/></a><br>
 
Well I can rebuild it no problem but i do not have good snap ring tools punches, presses etc. I know the syncros are good but that price hurts. The only problem with my m46 is there is to much play on the input shaft so the bearings must be bad. Im going to call around monday to have the seals and bearing only replaced.

Thanks red
 
If you have to ask, forget about it.

Is it noisy? If not, run it i until it is.

Bearings aren't insane money...skf # and change them and the needle bearings or speed gear bushings is all I ever did generally. Syncros I'd just lap nicer used ones in. Theu last pretty ok if needed.

M47 shares most parts with late needle bearing alum case 740turbo m46.

The two i did freshen did hang in there a lot longer. P-type od is much easier to get new parts for, and is the only one we got worth a darn. J type with some ptype parts and updates help last ok.

Good luck.
 
If M47s are abundant, do a trans swap.

I think, at worst, you're gonna need a different driveshaft but it's nowhere near as intense as a T5 swap.

Either that, or T5 swap it.
 
eeaves42 said:
The only problem with my m46 is there is to much play on the input shaft so the bearings must be bad.
Click to expand...

What symptoms do you experience when driving? Noise? Popping out of gear? You say you know the synchros are good, so I ASSume that it shifts without problems.

I notice that you had the tranny out to replace the clutch. Is that when you noticed the play in the input shaft? You do realize, I hope, that the end of that shaft is supported by the pilot bearing in the crankshaft? It would be hard for it to wobble much when in the car. I am having a hard time seeing a real problem here.

OTOH, maybe it is best to replace the whole thing... and send me that aluminum case. ;-)
 
The m46 input and main bearings have ball bearings not tapered rollers so there is inherently more play. If in a jam, you can put a main bearing in the inputs place. Theyre the same size only the main has more balls :oogle:. I have some spare parts here:
http://turbobricks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4145502&postcount=11
(shameless plug)
If you REALLY want a m46, part out a couple m47s and swap in the best parts.
The OD can be rebuilt with homemade gaskets and rubber orings from the local seal shop.
Get the needle bearings with the plastic races NOT the metal ones.
 
my m46 does not pop out of gear or grind a little noise in 3ed but otherwise perfect but the end play of the input shaft is bad enough to eat the front seal.
 
You mean like more than a quarter inch? That would be worth looking into. It should be possible to see what's going on by pulling off the top cover and/or the bell housing. It could be much less than a rebuild to fix.
 
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