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Placement/fittings for two oil pressure sensors - standalone and gauge/idiot light

B

bugjam1999

Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2015
Hi all,

Looking to add an additional oil pressure sensor to a b230fk, for connection to a maxxecu standalone. I’ve already got a vdo 2-connection sensor in the standard place, for the idiot light on the dash and a 52mm oil pressure gauge.

I can’t find a sensor that will output to all three of the above, and the adapters /tee pieces I’ve found so far look like they’ll make the whole sensor and extra sensor arrangement a bit big to fit in the restricted space behind the alternator.

Am I missing obvious? I’ve thought of drilling and tapping the big banjo bolt on my oil filter return arm (same as RWC used to drill and tap for oil temperature sensors) but if there was somewhere else that I could use or a fitting I could use that’s just bolt in that’d be great.

I’ve seen banjo bolts with oil pressure sensors in them- perhaps the oil feed to the turbo?

Or a small sensor that’ll fit in place of the plug on the front of the block under the water pump, where the oil feed for the turbo on a +t setup?

Open to suggestions,

Cheers
 
With the older build-it-yourself versions of MegaSquirt, there was a way to share sensors. You needed to remove the 2.49K ohm sensor bias resistor from the megasquirt box, measure the bias resistance applied by the other box/gauge, and setup the megasquirt sensor config with the other resistance. I don't know if you can remove components from a Maxx ECU, nor if you can configure a non-standard sensor bias resistor.
 
I used a tee off the passenger side of the block to run two senders - one for MS and one for the idiot light. I suppose the same could be done to add a second sender for your third signal.
 
I'm also into this. VDO gauge+sensor and MaxxRace.
Oil pressure gauge is a voltmeter with certain (constant) resistance and sensor is a variable resistor. So it works like a voltage divider. My plan is to measure (or use potentiometer) voltage/pressure from the sensor and then compose a table in Maxx.
 
The hydraulic line remote is safest. Too many pieces hanging off a threaded thbe on a shaking block is bad juju.
I have been making some custom firewall-mount blocks for my junk.
 
AndrewNance said:
I used a tee off the passenger side of the block to run two senders - one for MS and one for the idiot light. I suppose the same could be done to add a second sender for your third signal.
Click to expand...
Ah, so perhaps I just need to find the right sized tee- do you have a photo of your setup you could share please?

Cheers
 
mikep said:
The hydraulic line remote is safest. Too many pieces hanging off a threaded thbe on a shaking block is bad juju.
I have been making some custom firewall-mount blocks for my junk.
Click to expand...
Yeah, this concerns me too- perhaps the remove line is the most sensible.

Firewall mount block… where are you taking the feed from?
 
bugjam1999 said:
Yeah, this concerns me too- perhaps the remove line is the most sensible.

Firewall mount block… where are you taking the feed from?
Click to expand...
Thread into the block a hose with swaged fitting (Amish syntax). NPT, whatever you have. The other end of that hose should have a flare fitting, etc to go on an npt fitting in the distribution block on the fender/firewall.
 
mikep said:
Thread into the block a hose with swaged fitting (Amish syntax). NPT, whatever you have. The other end of that hose should have a flare fitting, etc to go on an npt fitting in the distribution block on the fender/firewall.
Click to expand...
I have a remote oil filter (mocal) set up which has a couple of blank ports to drill and tap.
Tim
 
bugjam1999 said:
Yeah, this concerns me too- perhaps the remove line is the most sensible.

Firewall mount block… where are you taking the feed from?
Click to expand...

Here is an example on this very website:

1979 242DL - Analog Motoring

That remote oil sensor is a smart idea. But a warning, the blue elbow you have in the line is made from a thin wall aluminium. They fracture really easily, which would be a very bad thing to happen. Probably okay for a 2 hour formula 1 race, but I've had them snap off in my hand before and vowed...
turbobricks.com turbobricks.com
 
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