VolvoLatAm
Active member
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2019
- Location
- Colombia
I have gone through a handful of pictures of 240 rear axles of individuals who have replaced rear axle bushings through the famous bushing tool and other more crude methods. I have seen about 10 different rear axle tabs/ear shapes that don't look the same with and without the bushings installed.
What I have noticed is that the tabs or ears in which the new bushings go through are welded on the axle which makes them potentially weak. Something I can't quite understand is why the angle/direction/shape of these tabs with or without bushings in these images are so different on various cars. These factory axle tab welds possibly do not seem so precise.
Is this due to people accidently collapsing the original shape by not using a good retainer while removing bushings? Or is there a tolerance of natural weld placement variance from the factory as well?
What is the correct shape of these tabs and the axle? Should they be pointing a few degrees outwards towards the rotors? Should the be perfectly vertical? How much variance in the angles of these bushings would cause noticeable changes in the functioning of the suspension. What would that feel like from a driving perspective--would the car walk to one side at speed if the bushing tab angle was not correct?
I understand that some bushings like the BNE rear axle bushings have the ability to not only go up and down but also side to side in terms of dealing with forces. Factory bushings had an up and down side... Would the internal part of the BNE rear axle spherical bushings compensate for not so perfect axle tab alignment that they are housed in?
What I have noticed is that the tabs or ears in which the new bushings go through are welded on the axle which makes them potentially weak. Something I can't quite understand is why the angle/direction/shape of these tabs with or without bushings in these images are so different on various cars. These factory axle tab welds possibly do not seem so precise.
Is this due to people accidently collapsing the original shape by not using a good retainer while removing bushings? Or is there a tolerance of natural weld placement variance from the factory as well?
What is the correct shape of these tabs and the axle? Should they be pointing a few degrees outwards towards the rotors? Should the be perfectly vertical? How much variance in the angles of these bushings would cause noticeable changes in the functioning of the suspension. What would that feel like from a driving perspective--would the car walk to one side at speed if the bushing tab angle was not correct?
I understand that some bushings like the BNE rear axle bushings have the ability to not only go up and down but also side to side in terms of dealing with forces. Factory bushings had an up and down side... Would the internal part of the BNE rear axle spherical bushings compensate for not so perfect axle tab alignment that they are housed in?