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240 Rear axle tab shape precision on a 244

VolvoLatAm

Active member
Joined
Oct 4, 2019
Location
Colombia
I have gone through a handful of pictures of 240 rear axles of individuals who have replaced rear axle bushings through the famous bushing tool and other more crude methods. I have seen about 10 different rear axle tabs/ear shapes that don't look the same with and without the bushings installed.

What I have noticed is that the tabs or ears in which the new bushings go through are welded on the axle which makes them potentially weak. Something I can't quite understand is why the angle/direction/shape of these tabs with or without bushings in these images are so different on various cars. These factory axle tab welds possibly do not seem so precise.

Is this due to people accidently collapsing the original shape by not using a good retainer while removing bushings? Or is there a tolerance of natural weld placement variance from the factory as well?

What is the correct shape of these tabs and the axle? Should they be pointing a few degrees outwards towards the rotors? Should the be perfectly vertical? How much variance in the angles of these bushings would cause noticeable changes in the functioning of the suspension. What would that feel like from a driving perspective--would the car walk to one side at speed if the bushing tab angle was not correct?

I understand that some bushings like the BNE rear axle bushings have the ability to not only go up and down but also side to side in terms of dealing with forces. Factory bushings had an up and down side... Would the internal part of the BNE rear axle spherical bushings compensate for not so perfect axle tab alignment that they are housed in?
 
Never paid much attention to this, but I've never noticed enough of a difference to warrant concern.


Position around the axle would affect pinion angle and the position of the axle in the wheel well.
If I remember I'll take a look at the "rear axle" 240 green book and see if it mentions anything, assuming no one else knows the info off the top of their head
 
They should be square to the axle, without the right tools to remove/install the old bushing they can get bent. I made my own puller/installer with a spacer that goes in-between the ears to keep them from bending.
 
Both of the tabs on my 80 and 84 look identical and just like James? picture. They should all be nearly identical, considering there is no adjustability in the factory suspension everything has to be nearly identical to have a properly alignment from the factory. It all relies on the bushings being in good shape. The parts have some slop/play when unbolted so that you can put it together, then you let the car settle and bolt it tight then it should all line up.
 
Both of the tabs on my 80 and 84 look identical and just like James? picture. They should all be nearly identical, considering there is no adjustability in the factory suspension everything has to be nearly identical to have a properly alignment from the factory. It all relies on the bushings being in good shape. The parts have some slop/play when unbolted so that you can put it together, then you let the car settle and bolt it tight then it should all line up.

The view I am referring to in terms of shape would be from behind or in front vs from the side
 
Can you find a side by side comparison of what you are describing? I've got more pictures to go through but I know I've got some more TAB shots
 
I haven't seen any difference in the ones I've done. Press the old one out, press the new one in... done. I installed a V1 of Ben's orbital bearing. The housing pressed in just fine. There isn't any side:side play in the orbital. The only reason there was some in the rubber version was because the rubber deformed. I don't think that they meant to do that, it just worked that way.
 
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