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RSI Cam choice.

gofaster_940

New member
Joined
Jul 30, 2010
Location
Kildare, Ireland
Just a quick enquiry about cam choice for my B230fk with the following mods, ported 16t turbo, ported 90+ fanimold, 3" turbo back exhaust, modded airbox, pair of mikes chips and a set of brown tops, would an RSI stage 1 or stage 2 cam be more suitable for this set up, the car is going to be a daily driver and track hack, I'm not too worried about lumpy idle or driveability.

Thanks.
 
This is what RSI say,

"Stage I will work great up to 300whp or so and is a GREAT daily driver cam. stage II is for folks wanting to rev things out with factory type turbo's and who have headwork etc...working upto having a header"

What would be the disadvantages and the advantages of running either cam in my set up posted above.

Thanks:)
 
Basically if you have everything opened up, don't mind about a lumpy idle or a lack of low-end torque, you have a turbo that can still boost past 6K, and have chips so you're rev limiter is raised, I'd go with the stage 2.

You don't HAVE to head work done. I'm sure an aggressive cam like that would like the extra head flow but I'm sure it'll still be fun with everything else opened up.

I basically have the exact same setup as you (except on a B230FT) and I went with the stage 2 as well. It's currently waiting to be installed until I get settled into our new place and I can setup my garage. If you're willing to wait I'd be more than happy to write a review on it when I get it in.
 
This is a US board. Means most members are located in the US and live in a different timezone than we do. I'll think you'll get an answer, just be patient.
Also searchfunction would also help you. There are some members who have fitted aftermarket cams in their 8v redblocks with great results (regring, KG, ENEM, RSI etc).

Being in Ireland I think finding a slotted A/V/VX3 should be pretty easy, would also be a cheap upgrade.
 
This is a US board. Means most members are located in the US and live in a different timezone than we do. I'll think you'll get an answer, just be patient.
Also searchfunction would also help you. There are some members who have fitted aftermarket cams in their 8v redblocks with great results (regring, KG, ENEM, RSI etc).

Being in Ireland I think finding a slotted A/V/VX3 should be pretty easy, would also be a cheap upgrade.

Very hard to find volvos in breakers in Ireland at the moment as the price for scrap steel is high at the moment so Volvos generally get weighed in for scrap and crushed.
 
Very hard to find volvos in breakers in Ireland at the moment as the price for scrap steel is high at the moment so Volvos generally get weighed in for scrap and crushed.

Hi!

Ask Hans W about the "V" cam, he is in Ireland! I buy one 2 weeks ago and he is very honest
and helpfull.

Cheers, Alex.
 
Hi!

Ask Hans W about the "V" cam, he is in Ireland! I buy one 2 weeks ago and he is very honest
and helpfull.

Cheers, Alex.

Hi, I asked Hans W about a cam before and he was looking for ?100($135) for a second hand cam(which is not a bad price) but for $159 I might as well buy a new RSI cam, its just a matter now of choosing between stage 1 or 2 which is why I started this thread.
 
Hi, I asked Hans W about a cam before and he was looking for ?100($135) for a second hand cam(which is not a bad price) but for $159 I might as well buy a new RSI cam, its just a matter now of choosing between stage 1 or 2 which is why I started this thread.

Ah, ok!

I drive my car every day in every conditions, so I woul'd prefer the Stage 1, but I'm sure the stage 2 is more funny! :oogle:
 
Very hard to find volvos in breakers in Ireland at the moment as the price for scrap steel is high at the moment so Volvos generally get weighed in for scrap and crushed.

I know-- depends on where you are and what you are looking for, -- Paddy Mulhearn in Athleaque near Roscommon may have what you are looking for, --
And if you buy in Us, -- consider shipping and excise duty and VAT -- all can add up to a fair bit. I remeber my last Mls gasket retailing at 110 Dollars cost me 160 Euro altogether--
 
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Ah, ok!

I drive my car every day in every conditions, so I woul'd prefer the Stage 1, but I'm sure the stage 2 is more funny! :oogle:

Personally, I opted for the stage 2, going into my DD along with a Stage 2 RSI 531 head (38mm exhaust valves, port/polish headwork etc).
I think, along with chips that raise the rev cutoff, this is a good option with an Adj. Cam gear.
 
Personally, I opted for the stage 2, going into my DD along with a Stage 2 RSI 531 head (38mm exhaust valves, port/polish headwork etc).
I think, along with chips that raise the rev cutoff, this is a good option with an Adj. Cam gear.

What difference did the cam make ?? and what turbo are you using ??
 
531 has yet to be run, it's sitting in my project (that I'm parting minus the engine).
It's like a hotter version of the KG2T.
I'm either going to run the Super60 I have lying around or pick up some iteration of the 15g/16t/18t etc.
I currently have a 13c which is fine at 10psi but the new head will yearn for more boost.
 
I know-- depends on where you are and what you are looking for, -- Paddy Mulhearn in Athleaque near Roscommon may have what you are looking for, --
And if you buy in Us, -- consider shipping and excise duty and VAT -- all can add up to a fair bit. I remeber my last Mls gasket retailing at 110 Dollars cost me 160 Euro altogether--

+1

In the past customs charged an additional E75 when I imported a RSI cam. Shipping was $75 Which means the cam will cost E200-250 before it's delivered to your door.
 
Can anyone describe the driving characteristics of the stage 1 and stage 2 cams ??

This is what RSI say,

"Stage I will work great up to 300whp or so and is a GREAT daily driver cam. stage II is for folks wanting to rev things out with factory type turbo's and who have headwork etc...working upto having a header"

I think they explained it pretty well. the stage 1 will be pretty good at most rpm and fall off at high rpm, but is still plenty good enough for 300hp. The stage 2 will not have quite as good low rpm torque but will carry the power band high up in the rpms and has the potential to produce more high rpm power.

The way I look at it is like this, and this is a very simplified version, cam theory is way beyond what I can understand. So here's the cliff notes.
With an 8v head like we have you can't get something with out sacrificing something else. For instance: The volvo T cam has amazing low rpm torque, but falls on it's face at higher than 4.5k rpm. The factory K cam makes pretty good power up in the higher rpm, but isn't as good as a T cam at low rpm torque.

If you're using an adjustable cam gear you can within reason shift that powerband up or down the rev range. So by retarding the cam you are shifting the emphasis on the exhaust stroke making the power band shift higher in rpm (not necessarily getting you more power just moving it) but loosing a bit of lower rpm power. By advancing a cam you're shifting emphasis on the intake stroke allowing the engine to inhale more which in turn shifts the power band to lower rpms, but loosing a bit of high rpm power.

Understand that and you will understand why the stage 2 cam isn't sold as a daily driver cam. It's a hot cam that emphasizes peak power at high rpm, but in turn sacrifices some power at lower rpm. Losing low rpm power is hard on a daily driver, you're not going to get to rev out to 6k between the stop signs too often. It's even more so on an automatic which engages the torque converted at around 1900rpm effectively bogging your engine down until you get up to speed to get into your power band.

It's easy to say get the stage 2 because it will allow for more power. The real question is how are you going to be using the power, what rpm range will the power do you the most good, and what other mods will you be doing to justify the beefier cam.

TLDR:

Your turbo alone (mitsu 16t) and factory manifolds tells me that you're not going to be in the more than 300hp range, and I would recommend the stage 1 or ipd turbo cam. As Mike's shown it takes about 2x the turbo (holset h351) and custom manifolds to make 300 hp on his chips.

You should have all the information you need to make a informed cam choice now, maybe read it twice. Good luck.
 
Thanks for all the replies, what's really needed here is a dyno graph, I'm being told the stage 2 will lose you low end torque but how low is low, below 2,3,4000rpm and how much torque will be lost ?? I'd like to see a torque curve for these cams to see when both of them start making interesting torque, when both peak and when the torque starts tailing away
 
I have what you have basically, just a bigger turbo. I still went with the stage 1 because I will be driving it on the street a lot. No use overcamming the motor. I dont have upgraded valve springs or bigger valves and I do not spend a ton of time at the higher rpms. For this reason, i decided to stay away from the stage 2. I also have a t-5 trans. I would go with a stage 1 in your set-up but thats just me.
 
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