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Svea - 1968 220 -

cwdodson88 said:
Easiest method is to utilize a surge tank or swirl tank in addition to the stock tank. That tank I made needs to be rewelded at all the seams, my little mig welder burns too hot and left me with too many pinholes, the cost to have it welded is going to be about the same as buying a fuel cell and bolting on a filler. I'm not sure if it's going to be worth it to me to try to finish it.
Click to expand...

I'm on the fence if I want to use a stock tank with surge or get a fuel cell...

Hope you do get a cell. Look forward to seeing how you put it in:)

Thanks,
 
With the stock tank and a 1/2 gallon surge tank, running the tank as low as possible, its full at ~10.6 gallons. Now the fuel cell of the closest to stock dimension, you get a "15 gallon" cell thats really 12 gallon (from the reviews). If I do a cell, it will be a little larger since I dont plan on having a spare and that will end up at like 14-15 gallons. That cell will leave me some room for a water meth tank if I go that way, or battery box.
 
well I forgot to get my update on here. Had some issues with gauge cluster V3.1, and since I have no extra cash for gauges and I still want to drive the car, I started digging through the scrap bucket. Here is V4
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scrap oak and poplar, scrap plexiglas, a scrap tach, innovate WB, a Scosche bracket for tablet or phone, and stock fuel gauge in a filled in 2" hole. All holes are 2", so if I decide I like it, I can toss some nice speedhut 2" jobbers in there and the 4 gauge setup in the console.
 
This is almost exactly the turbo setup I was imagining I would use to blow up the bored-to-2-liters B18 in my junk to more easily justify putting a V8 in it. Only difference is that I was thinking of putting the turbo on the other side of the engine. But then I kept seeing a total cost that makes going right to the V8 make more sense...

And congrats on the job! That's where I look at motors when I price out an electric conversion with a target HP of around 200 for a single motor and around 100mi of range.
 
In order to put the turbo on the other side, you'd be looking at another 3 feet of manifold before the turbo... big loss of efficiency would be more than likely. Right now I have about 30" from the valve to the turbine wheel. Spool is alright, but any laggier and it would not be as much fun on a daily.
 
bmessina said:
And congrats on the job! That's where I look at motors when I price out an electric conversion with a target HP of around 200 for a single motor and around 100mi of range.
Click to expand...

Thanks!

The single core AMR 115R running at 450a and 325v should do that pretty easily with about 30% overhead. The torque would stay constant to about 5k and slowly fade. So pairing that to a 3.27 rear end, you could power a car as long as you can keep the curb weight to right around 2000lbs. Throw a trans mission in the mix and you can go higher curb weight.

If you can up the power to say 400a at 600v, you should see peak torque of about 250-280ftlbs, falling off at about 7.5-8k. (these numbers are all with the proper controller)
 
Well this last weekend was garage clean up, organization, and work table building so I dont have to sit on the floor to do all the bracketry.

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Just cashed out 1/2 my PTO and started ordering the final pieces to the rear end narrowing fun. Gotta decide if I want to just use the stock configuration and make adjustable bars, or do the whole thing including adjustable frame brackets....

Also, I need to get an idea on the spring rate for the rear.
 
Thanks! It folds out from about 27" x 79" to 60"x79" and it can be moved fully loaded by 1 person (when collapsed) and when the wheels are locked it doesnt move easily.

And even better, total cost was $42 for the casters, and the latches. Everything else came out of the remodel scrap heap.
 
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THANKS! I'm liking it.

We get a little bit. Usually we will see 5-7 days of 1-3" and maybe one or two that we get more than that. And we're right at the mouth of the Eastern Oregon Desert, so when we get a Chinook (East) wind, The Dalles gets hit pretty hard. All around us are hills, so if we dont get snow down here, a 10-30 minute drive and I can be in waist deep fresh snow.

Unless we get a flood inversion (happens most of the time) where the cold floods into the low areas, and the clouds get held there by a warm blanket system. Those days, you get the snow/sleet freezing rain down low, and bright sunny skies above 2000 ft.

I'm gearing up for the next storm later this week. We should see another 5-12 inches of snow from Wednesday to Saturday.
 
I started tear down of my Explorer 8.8. Still waiting for my other passenger side axle to arrive, but that should be here on Monday. So far, from my crude measurements, I will still end up with the driver side being 1" longer than the passenger side :wtf: I thought that it would center the pinion, but I guess it just gets it closer.
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All of this is getting me thinking about my rear suspension. So far, I've decided that I will be doing away with the stock configuration and going to a Competition Engineering 4 link. Just not sure how the frame brackets will play into it all until I get the kit.

Then its a matter of coilovers.... there s few options
~$400 I can get a CE kit, 3 step adjustable valved shock, 2.5" ID spring with 4" adjustable perch, and it comes with axle mounts that allow for 3-4" of adjustability there, and some progressive rate springs from QA1 and I was thinking that a 150/225 would be good for the wagon and it's utilitarian side.

~$500 for a QA1 double adjustable shock 18 comp/18rebound, 2.5" ID spring, 3" adjustable perch, axle mounts that have the same 3-4" of adjusablility, same springs.

~$350 Used Afco rebuildable shocks, 3 way adjustment, same springs, perches, axle mounts... only deal is USED...

I will probably end up with the CE kit, an if the shocks suck, I can grab a set of the QA1 doubles and see how those do.

Well its my final week at work next week, I get to train someone to do a job that I've been doing for 12 years and I only have 4 days to do it! Sounds like a good enough amount of time... Thanks management. But oh well I get the rest of my PTO cashed out and I can start ordering parts for the rear suspension.
 
Look forward to seeing how you do the rear suspension. I would like to go bagged. I just cut out 3" on the one side for axle and it was good. There is pictures in my build thread if you need.

Thanks,
 
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