T6 engine build for 240 conversion. Best direction to go....

[Mule]

Any six cylinder t6 experts on here?
Just wondering what component parts make the best t6 engine for my 240 project?
Thoughts so far are.....
1998 T6 block, rods and pistons.
1998 s90 sump, oil pick up and other bits to make it mount the correct way.
S90 cylinder head with cams to remove the variable exhaust valve timing fron the t6.
Bmw turbo manifold with flange modified.
S90 intake stubs with custom plenum.
850r clutch with whiteblock m90 gearbox.
Stand-alone management with clocks (not sure which).
Front sway bar?
Obviously all the niff-naff with intercooler, radiator etc, etc but that's easy enough. It's advice on the Volvo specific bits I'm really interested in.

Sorry if this is a bit noddy, but I'm more of a VW man so Volvos are new to me.

Oh, anyone got a link for an engine manual for torques and the like?

Cheers for any input and ideas.

 

[Captain Bondo]

The T6 Motor has a unique timing belt and gears. Combining the S90 head... I wouldn't do it.

If I were doing another T6, I would get the latest 81mm bore engine I could. I think this is 2000 or 2001, but its been a long time now... Basically you want:

81mm bore
Manual timing belt tensioner (2000+)
Solid lifters (2000.5+)

That's the ideal, in my opinion.

 

[Lankku]

It really doesn't matter which block or engine you are using if you use stock rods. Those are the first ones to brake. You could as well use whole B6304. Use of RWD head just to remove VVT is a bit excessive. All it needs is to be left without wiring. Depending on ecu it can be used.

I've used RWD head on top of T6 blocks with both timing belt tensioner versions. Older is practically identical with RWD, same belt etc. Newer mechanical needs a bit tweaking. Negative side in this is the place of powersteering pump. You can't use it in the original T6 place because of thermostat housing. Aux support(or whatever it's called) and all auxiliaries are different in RWD and FWD 6cyl.

Previous word "all" includes me partially assuming that all -98 sold T6 cars/engines are MY -99 and follow the same changes as 5cyl. At that point in 5cyl auxiliaries changed from older to newer and are compatible with 6cyl.

I have used only heads with hydraulic lifters. After valve job solid lifters have to be changed to adjust gap or valves shortened individually before assembling the head. And hydraulics can take at least 7600rpm with stock 204hp cams and stiffer valve springs.

If you have a complete T6, change sump and drive away. If you want more power than lets say 300-350hp, change B6294 204hp cams and H-prof rods. Somewhere around 550-600 hp I'd change stiffer valve spings. Even with stock T6 cams you can get decent power.

Stock type front sway bar can be used, just add small spacers between body and mount. Option is to use V6 or diesel sway bar and it's a direct fit. Dunno if those have stiffer aftermarket versions such as ipd.

 

[Slevin]

If you have a complete T6, change sump and drive away. If you want more power than lets say 300-350hp, change B6294 204hp cams and H-prof rods. Somewhere around 550-600 hp I'd change stiffer valve spings. Even with stock T6 cams you can get decent power.

The problem is that the T6 has the VVT on the exhaust side and the B6294 has it on the intake.

 

[Lankku]

The problem is that the T6 has the VVT on the exhaust side and the B6294 has it on the intake.

To my understanding it doesn't matter if you aren't going to use VVT. Of course forgot to mention that in that case VVT has to be welded solid because it doesn't have oil pressure. And timing the cam is more time consuming than with non-VVT cam because you can see the position of the cam only from behind.

 

[Slevin]

I meant he cant fit the B6294 cams in the T6 head because of the opposite side VVT, can he?

 

[Lankku]

And that's exactly the question I answered to. I think? It doesn't matter to which head the cam is positioned if VVT is welded solid. The important shapes are the same on both cams. Forgot also to mention that in case of swapping the B6294 cams the solenoid has to be removed and oil lines sealed. Tap a thread and screw a bolt in with threadlocker, for example.

Even RWD cams could be used in a VVT head. Needs "just" to machine a small sleeve(or half of it) for axial support. The collar(?) for axial supports is on the different side of the first cam bearing in FWD and RWD. I have a couple blurry mobile shots of the differences when this option was considered with a friend.

From the left is T6 exhaust VVT-cam, T6 intake and RWD. You can also see the place of the axial support.

RWD cam in a T6 head. Sleeve needed isn't big and doesn't seem difficult to make with a lathe. Measuring is the bigger part

 

[Slevin]

Ok, now I see what you meant. But it is still not as simple job as "just swap it over".
Do you have pics of a ready to go state with the NA cams?

 

[Lankku]

Well, there's almost always some work needed in mods. Wouldn't still say it is (too)complicated.
I have not any pics. And T6 cams will be good enough for most of the people.