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Most power with cossie .48 housing

G

gumbyTF

New member
Joined
Sep 20, 2009
Location
indy, IN
I had one machined out to fit over the stgIII turbine wheel of my SC50 hybrid, and am being told it may be a choke point in my system.

Who is making the most power with a Cossie .48 turbine housing?
 
What hp do you want to make? Your tires will be your weak point long before the turbine housing.
 
gumbyTF said:
I had one machined out to fit over the stgIII turbine wheel of my SC50 hybrid, and am being told it may be a choke point in my system.

Who is making the most power with a Cossie .48 turbine housing?
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I've seen in my own little hands plenty of dyno sheets showing power in the mid-high 300s---when combined with the recommended

Garrett compressor wheel
PN 431905-0004 which has major dia 69,00mm minor dia 48,25mm blade tip hgt 5,60 shaft dia 6,25mm and is 48 trim

I cannot begin to understand why a person world find removing 3 easy access bolts such a pain that they would want to weld a V band clamp on.
Is 3 bolts so time consuming?
 
John V said:
I cannot begin to understand why a person world find removing 3 easy access bolts such a pain that they would want to weld a V band clamp on.
Is 3 bolts so time consuming?
Click to expand...



Overall, it's much easier to make a "normal" 3" downpipe that just has a regular old 3" v-band on it. Otherwise you need to weld a transition piece on and get a stupid flared end put on, or recycle the one from your old fleabitten exhaust system, blah blah blah.

Way easier to buy a vband assembly, weld one side onto the housing (cuz it takes all of 20 minute's to grind it flat and weld a non-retarded flange on), and have your exhaust be 3" right from the get go.

If I am building an exhaust/turbo setup for someone, I'll always use a 3"v-band where possible. Clean simple and standard.

Especially if you use a quick release v-band clamp, you can literally remove it in 30 seconds. And it's all stainless and it stays cool enough you can use a nylock instead of the stovers you need to use on a conical 3 bolt setup. So if it stays on for a year or more it is less prone to fight you/break studs off in the housing, etc etc.


With a stage 3 turbine wheel, you might squeak 400whp out of a 0.48. It won't be happy about it though. 300-350 is where it's be happiest like Johnzo says. :nod:
 
Captain Bondo said:
Overall, it's much easier to make a "normal" 3" downpipe that just has a regular old 3" v-band on it. Otherwise you need to weld a transition piece on and get a stupid flared end put on, or recycle the one from your old fleabitten exhaust system, blah blah blah.
Click to expand...

Yeah, the 15- tops 20 minutes it took when i fabbed the last 3-4 downpipes and flared the ends by hand is awfully difficult. Much easier to spend a lot of dough, weld onto cast iron that's been caked in rust and carbon..
Silly me.
Way easier to buy a vband assembly, weld one side onto the housing (cuz it takes all of 20 minute's to grind it flat and weld a non-retarded flange on), and have your exhaust be 3" right from the get go.
Click to expand...

Golly, the Cossie exhaust register and wide bolt circle IS set up for a 3' direct to turbo...

Your reference to "transition stub" up there, and the above pretty much confirms you've never held a Cossie turbine housing in your hands

If I am building an exhaust/turbo setup for someone, I'll always use a 3"v-band where possible. Clean simple and standard.
Click to expand...

Well for the stuff you're doing...
The question was "Cossie turbine housing HP"

Especially if you use a quick release v-band clamp, you can literally remove it in 30 seconds. And it's all stainless and it stays cool enough you can use a nylock instead of the stovers you need to use on a conical 3 bolt setup. So if it stays on for a year or more it is less prone to fight you/break studs off in the housing, etc etc.
Click to expand...

Ironic that you talk of the ease of the silly V band thing---and yet the accessibility of the turbo mounting bolts on the buncha-snakes style manifolds you like with turbo down seems not to be done with the same concern for speedy removal

With a stage 3 turbine wheel, you might squeak 400whp out of a 0.48. It won't be happy about it though. 300-350 is where it's be happiest like Johnzo says. :nod:
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I said nothing of a silly "Stage 3' turbine wheel. By not saying---and as the question was about "a Cossie turbine housing" I implied I was referring to Turbine wheel 451311-0014 which is what comes in Volvo turbo B21, B23, B230, B204, Ford CVH 1.6T, Ford YBB Cosworth, Ford YBG Cosworth, XR4Ti, Thundbird, Lancia Intergrale, Lancia 16v Delta Intergrale and a few dozen other motors....

"Mid-high 300"s was suggesting 360-390 bhp....
That's what I've seen on the dyno sheets from real engine builders, but of course what do they know?
Click to expand...
 
woodywhat said:
i totaly agree! and when your changing a turbo on race day theres nothing simple about three red hot bolts!
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Original question din't say anything bout race days or removal....
This is what I do and suggest for the difficult to get to nuts"
getrempic3.php


That is of course if quick changes are needed---and then yes a V band clamp is much faster---it's just that was a side track thrown in by somebody, not even the same general subject area that he was asking about...
 
I have a full 3" outlet on mine. It's hogged out to the full 3". I'd assume 3" right off the turbine instead of 2.65 or whatever stock was to flow more, and be less of a restriction.

197792_2004519747774_1087024055_32106013_4257699_n.jpg


I'm a big fan of it. Had one on my old car. This is going on my new car. Not sure why the hate?
 
Lord_Athlon said:
I have a full 3" outlet on mine. It's hogged out to the full 3". I'd assume 3" right off the turbine instead of 2.65 or whatever stock was to flow more, and be less of a restriction.

197792_2004519747774_1087024055_32106013_4257699_n.jpg


I'm a big fan of it. Had one on my old car. This is going on my new car. Not sure why the hate?
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That is exactly the approach I am describing. Looks great.

John's just John.
 
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Captain Bondo said:
That is exactly the approach I am describing.

John's a touch senile and sometimes gets upset when people bring up goshdarned new fangled thingamobs like v-banders and turbine wheels that are not the size gawd intended.

He is also quite helpful at times though so personally, I just take the good with the bad. ;-P
Click to expand...

Possibly, but one thing I do is talk about things I have actually worked on, ya know? Like Cossie turbine housings.....and damn if those V bands haven't driven me crazy since oh 1987 or so...yeah new fangled...

Say Capitaine, what did you do to get them to stay in place back in 1987??

Ah, shucks the forgetfulness thing....know what I mean?
Like right now i can't remember exactly how many of these Cossie turbine housings you said you had worked on??
What was that???

Dag-nabbit, can ya speak up son?
I say spit it out boy, cat gotcher tongue?
 
Nothing unique about a 3 bolt conical turbine flange.

I've worked on dozens, mostly the exactly the same, just 2.5" version.
I've also worked on the flat 3 bolt stuff like the later mitsu's have (the pic Johan posted is I assume a cossie housing modded to be a similar style to them).

Want some "piccies"? :roll:

Conical downpipe for garrett (I've made lots):
P1010988.jpg


Flat flange for mitsu on FWD, similar to Johan's:
DSC01205.jpg


Vband on my own car, with v-band wastegate connections. Never have any issues with them staying put. My guess is you're going it wrong.

DSC01747.jpg


Also go a v-band underneath to connect to the aluminum exhaust:

P1010944.jpg



I like v-bands. I'm not scared to weld them onto turbine housings, so I do. Call it personal preference.

Nonetheless try sourcing any modern aftermarket turbo. The majority will have a v-band or marmon flange.

Heck the tendency nowadays it to even use a v-band for the inlet connection on the manifold.

You can't stop progress, John. :-P
 
fige said:
yes.
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WindowsBreakerG4 said:
Studs and nuts back off, vbands don't
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yep. never mind there's always at least one that's a pain in the ass to reach (and it's the first to strip/break/seize up)

as for power, the 48 is good for a respectable amount of power. The logical question would be "is it a restriction on my setup?" and then post the setup info. Because let's face it. On a 1L yugo GV, no, no it's not going to be a restriction.
 
volvorsport said:
are you saying you have a .63 wheel in a .48 housing ?

just get the prequiite cossie housing , cost an arm and a leg mind .
Click to expand...


A stock turbine wheel is a stock turbine wheel, I think. I don't believe that a stock 0.63 and a stock 0.48 use different turbine wheels...
 
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