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New club 300+ hp - see if you apply!

boostdemon

boostdemon

creative mastermind
Joined
May 31, 2002
Location
Cary, NC
Theres a new group for those members with 300hp or more...
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showgroups.php

this is a way to recognize those who have invested the time and effort in getting to where many folks only talk about.

Complimentary special edition 300+ stickers will be awarded to all those who do and will qualify. (not available yet but you'll get them)

Find out how you qualify:

You will need an engine dyno reading (doubt anyone will have this) or a chassis dyno (rolling dyno for your Europeans) with 15% loss for Automatics or 12% for manuals. thats 255rwhp for autos and 264rwhp for manuals

update: sorry folks, this is Nitrous free... some may argue its the same as someone using water or methanol injection, however what we're looking for is constant positive power, not in spurts. Sorry.

PLEASE CONTACT HANK SCORPIO IF YOU'VE APPLIED AND HAVEN'T BEEN APPROVED YET

To apply for the group click on "group memberships" in your profile menu. Please PM Hank Scorpio with your dyno sheet and info when you apply.

Here is the actual 300+ thread: http://www.forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=92271
 
Last edited by a moderator:
hrm dana....**perhaps this is more of a good estimate...guess we'll see when we compare numbers with someone with a dyno chart and 1/4 mile time/mph**

oh well ill be in this club....someday :badboy:
 
interesting.. plugging in the numbers i ran at the track and then cross referencing them with numbers on the dyno puts my cars weight with driver in the 2700lb range... nice.....
 
I'd suggest we only take those with dyno sheets.

With my car weight at 2950 and my ET at 17.439, it says 109.9rwhp. The Mustang dyno says 85.6rwhp.

At 72% drivetrain loss, I'm in!
 
work up some better number calculations if you've got the resouces... i do see some errors in using benchracing calcs for it. maybe someone withe a confirmed 300hp can get some better conversions?
 
Go from Trap speeds.

I know Kenny's car isn't 2700 lbs, and I know it sure as hell isn't with him in it. (remeber, to cheat in that game, you want your car heavier :wink:)

100mph traps aren't 300bhp in anything under 3k lbs, not likey even at 3200lbs. Probably high 280's.

http://www.smokemup.com/auto_math/hp_mph.php

now, Pats car dynoed ~ 220whp iirc, he bumped the boost a few more pounds, we figured 240 and trapped 100. His car was lighter, probably no more than 2950 loaded, and according to them he only made 195whp, but 247bhp. Their BHP actually seems to be more like whp.

Course, heres the kicker. This ONLY accounts for the amount of power you put to the ground effectively (ie no wheel spin). I burned the crap out of my tires, only trapped a 100, so I effectively put down little HP.

what I would consider doing: 13.5 or quicker earns a 300hp member sticker no questions asked (provided the car is indeed over lets say, 2700lbs).
 
In a 740 wagon, with regular trim you would have to trap about.... 107mph with a manual or... 105mph with an auto....... so im only about.... 13mph off...
 
tryckj?vel said:
You will need an engine dyno reading (doubt anyone will have this) or a chassis dyno (rolling dyno for your Europeans) with 15% loss for Automatics or 12% for manuals. thats 255rwhp for autos and 264rwhp for manuals
Click to expand...

Rwhp from a dyno is not very reliable with a fixed loss%.
Even on the same dyno you can have varying loss % depending on strap-down force, angle of the car, tire pressure etc.

One-roller dynos (where the wheels are placed on top of one roller) have far less loss % than a two-roller dyno (where you put the wheels between two rollers). Tire size/profile have more of an effect on the two roller dyno than a one roller dyno.
So the only way to actually get a estimation of the flywheel hp is with a dyno that measures the losses (coastdown), NOT by using a fixed loss %. A dyno with SAE or DIN correction is probably as accurate as you can get.

Thing
-79 242ti
 
honestly if you put down a 260 rwhp dyno chart you're good enough into the 300hp range. Until someone measures the actual loss in a M46 and 2 piece shaft, 3.73 gears, etc... the 15% and 12% will suit.

yes doug, a 275whp will put you in the club, anything less from you and you're in your own club of mechanical failures :p
 
What about Torque.. my clutch is out like a loose hooker, so I've had to keep my boost set at 8psi. My last dyno chart (1/28/04) reflected 187.8hp at 5000 and 232.2 ft/lbs of torque at 3100.. I've got enough fuel to turn the boost up to 15psi but my clutch wont allow it. I'll keep you guys updated. I'll try to get to school and make some Dyno runs with my new straight exhaust.
Alot of people have asked me what my 1/4mi times are->I dont drag race, sorry!
 
yes... the goal is a reachable hp rating that most people can get to w/o having to do major work. possibly in the future we can do a 400hp rating which would include those folks who have gone to full forged internals and lots of engineering
 
The way dyno charts have been looking, you're going to have damn-near 400 ft/lbs to get 300 hp. Not that that's bad, it's just that it seems easy to get torque out of our engines, but hard to get hp. Must be their tractor engine ancestry showing.
 
With the oversquare dimensions, 80mm stroke etc, the motors would tend to make more whp than tq. It would seem the limiting factor is mass flow, from either the head or the cams, or both. Not to mention other mass flow/pumping losses.

Also, the low static CR of the b21ft will tend to make more tq, for given hp.
 
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