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Speedshop's - Volvo 142 -70

Where this spindles are from? What kind of Mercedes? Did you messure the spindles full? Do you know the dimensions? How Do they compare to the Volvo ones? Thank you for sharing, regards, Kay
 
Where this spindles are from? What kind of Mercedes? Did you messure the spindles full? Do you know the dimensions? How Do they compare to the Volvo ones? Thank you for sharing, regards, Kay

Spindles are from a w115 Compact.
Fits pretty well together with the Volvoparts.
You can use them one both sides if you have a bit of imagination :-D
Have not messured at all , i chose these because the spindles have the steeringarm bolted.
Originaly the Volvospindles have the complete spindle casted with steeringarm.
And to be able to register my car as a amateurbuild i need to change them.

We are a couple of Volvoowners building with these spindles.
No one i think is ready to show results yet but soon.
 
Nothing really happened just now.
But i am messuring for the steeringrack and widetrack front axle.
I need to cut the front beam and weld in aprox 10cm.
That's to fit the wide rearaxle.

Will take a pic when i got anything to show for :oogle:
 
One step forward & one step back......one step forward & one step back :rofl:

There is something going on anyways.
Neverending story about the steeringrack.
Testing and contemplating and more testing.
Right now testing the rack behind the front beam.


The Engine has the oilpickup in front when monted as i want it.
So then there will be a gap between Engine and gearbox.
Perfect for the steeringrack to be......kind of.
Testing testing.


Reved up my machine.
And choped of my front beam.
As i said earlier my front beam is to narrow to fit my goal.
So i had to make room for both steeringrack and fitment for the rear.
There is welding......not so pretty lookning but its only inside the beam.

20140506_144831.jpg


Here with testing of the steeringrack.

20140506_160725.jpg


From the upside.

20140506_160732.jpg
 
Hope to get the frontbeam sandblasted soon so i can weld it up again.
Aming to get the messurements accurate and for it to be max 5cm thick.
Then i have made some extra centimeters of room for the engine.
Ofcourse reinforced inside with extra supports.
 
Hey Guy without name. Do you work for Northbike?

The rear diff is with a Visco I think. You have to remove this stuff too. Do you think the Diff and the driveshafts are strong enough?

You have to weld a lot if you want to fix the front beam into the body again.
The angle between Steering rack and Coloumn is amazing. Wat kind of cardans you will use?

Good fun anywhere. I'm now in the decission to swap a B204L (yes Saab) or a heavy modifeyed B230FT into the Amazon...
For this reason I'm interested in your front Mercedes Spindles too...
regards, Kay
 
Nice to swap some Engines.
Saab into Volvo is really to upset some people i Sweden :rofl:
But just do it , just fun to have some more Power in the car.

Hey Guy without name. Do you work for Northbike?

The rear diff is with a Visco I think. You have to remove this stuff too. Do you think the Diff and the driveshafts are strong enough?

You have to weld a lot if you want to fix the front beam into the body again.
The angle between Steering rack and Coloumn is amazing. Wat kind of cardans you will use?

Good fun anywhere. I'm now in the decission to swap a B204L (yes Saab) or a heavy modifeyed B230FT into the Amazon...
For this reason I'm interested in your front Mercedes Spindles too...
regards, Kay

No name guy is me :rofl:
Joakim is the name.
Jay Jay by nick or just J(ay).

No not northbike.
I did work at Motorcentralen earlier.
That's the local VAG Cars dealer and workshop.

For now i do not think anything is strong enough.
But to start with this is what is avalible so.

I will use the axles from the original car.
The Audi A6 (kardan) middleaxle and rearaxle.

About the frontbeam.
I need to weld alot anyways.
But not more then expekted.
Have som isue with hight for the new Engine.
That's why i have grinded it open and are going to make extra supports inside.

The steering rack will not have the angle on the pics.
The steeringarms is hanging loose in the pics.
So it will be better later on.

The amazon have spindles with bolted steeringarms allready i think?
So for that reason you can use what you have if you do not want to make new ones.
In my case it is because the SFRO(carbuilders organisation) needs a big enough change to be able to register it as a new build.

If you have som questions just ask.
I will answer IF i can :oogle:
 
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Hrrmm.
Did not think right from the start.
So there was som doublework made.
But that's the way its gone be anyways ::)



20140507_155010.jpg


Grinded out the inside and underside of the beam.



20140507_185530.jpg


New sheetmetal welded in.
A bit thicker to compensate and making it stronger.



20140507_191034.jpg


The i sectioned the frontbeam.
I have some problems with the hight of the new Engine.



20140513_154020.jpg


Seemwelded the joints inside the beam.
Then sandblasted and cleaned of the metal.
Will weld up and make it stronger with extra support inside.
Then ofcourse paint and protect against rust.
 
The rear diff is with a Visco I think.

regards, Kay

Why do you think so?
Torsen differential in both center and rear standard.

Its only the old cars with transversed mounted Engine that has Visco.
I have two of the models , a Golf VR6 Syncro and a Jetta Syncro.
Then the (old)Passat Syncro(88-96) has the same Visco.

Cars with the engine longitudinally mounted have NO Visco.
The Passat HAS the name Syncro but it shares the Quattro driveline with the Audi.

Then the A6 have the EDS.....crap system.
So IF the reardiff will not work ok then i have to change it.

Are you with me here :oogle:
 
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No not really.
BUT.....i have i scale i the garage so i can check for you :cool:

I'd appreciate it. You see weights listed for different wheels around the internet, but you never know if they're based on on actual scale reading or a generic weight given in some marketing pamphlet.
 
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