Search results

edit: How to check wiper control switch? The windshield intermittent relay, on an '88 245, that is. I'm trying to solve my completely dead wipers problem, and I can't find it. Also, is this what it looks like: Thanks!

Car: 88 245, replaced fuel relay a few years ago. . . Where: in case it's important I'm in SD, so the temps I'm trying to start in are lower than 10 degrees F. . . The Problem: No start condition. Starter motor, injectors, everything seems to work fine. . .I haven't checked spark but the car...

The tragic results of driving a debranded 245 in Sioux Falls SD: I have no clue what the cop was on that night. I mean, I've removed the lower body trim, so he could stare right at my rusted underbody (and missing muffler) while he was writing out the ticket. 2007? Wtf? I know we're pretty...

NONONONONO DON'T DO IT! Trust me. I thought I'd be smart and make my oil pressure feed line out of small copper tubing - much cheaper than the braided stainless/silicone stuff, and should be completely immune to heat damage, right? Well, I put the spring coils in it, and even quenched both ends...

This some 1200 miles away from home. . .suckage. Has anyone ever had a fire here? It _seems_ to have maybe started in the wiper motor harness, since those were burned the worst, but that may not be true. What's weird is that I had a slight oil leak on the oil feed line for the turbo, so there...

The volvo: 1989 245dl, converted to m47 from auto, stock exhaust, stock lh2.2 The situation: F+T *ALMOST* complete. I'm pretty familiar with this car up until this point, having babied it along for about a year and a half now, doing all the (major) tune-up stuff. Drove it basically across the...

(just finishing up my manual swap and +T project, waiting for some parts to come in.) So, I'll be painting my car quite soon. You can't really see anything in this pic, but the clearcoat on the roof is literally shredded from the po's roofrack indescretions, and there's rust creeping in the...

So I just finished bolting everything on to convert my 245 into a manual, but am having some issues w/ the clutch. Everything seems fine, the cable is adjusted to Bentley-spec and the disengage fork is in fact seated on the pivot, but the clutch doesn't seem to disengage properly when the pedal...

As mentioned in another thread, I'm turning my auto dd into a manual. While I have the m47 out, is there anything I should do to maintain it? I'm replacing the clutch disk (my brother learned to drive on this one so it's pretty much dead) and although I haven't opened the gearbox up yet, I plan...

I'm in the middle of dropping the manual tranny (alloy case, so m47?) from my parts 245 for a auto/manual swap into my dd. Tranny came out fine, thanks to an impact wrench and a LOT of 1/2" extensions. The only thing left is the clutch, and unfortunately the cover is held on with the difficult...

Car : '88 245, stock everything, >200k Related repairs : replaced flame trap fitting and filter, cleaned all three hoses; replaced front main seal <75 miles ago. Anyway, my b230f is leaking oil out of the camshaft cover and front main seal. As far as I can figure, this would mean a blocked or...

Car: '88 245DL, stock b230F w/ stock LH2.2 ignition Wear: ~160k, but the steering wheel is WAY more worn than my other `87 245 with >250k. . . Very little body rust; wiring harness has been in good condition wherever I've pulled it apart, although the exterior insulation has disintigrated...

Car: '88 245DL, stock b230F w/ stock LH2.2 ignition Wear: ~160k, but the steering wheel is WAY more worn than my other `87 245 with >250k. . . Very little body rust; wiring harness has been in good condition wherever I've pulled it apart, although the exterior insulation has disintigrated...

Car: 1988 240 wagon (245) DL, NA, pure stock fuel system One of my attempts to solve the no-start issue mentioned in my previous post was to replace the in-tank pump. When I removed the through-tank plug, however, the outside steel nipples fell off (rust), so I swapped in an almost-new assembly...

I've been struggling with a non-starting 88 240 (B230f + LH2.2 Volvo/Chrysler ignition) for a while now. I've either tested or replaced (or swapped in with a known working part) almost everything involved in the ignition system, with no luck. Anyway, one of the manual's ignition system checks is...

Got a frustrating no-start problem with my '88 245DL. Starter moter turns, have spark, have battery, have fuel, fuel pumps work, blah blah. I believe the problem is that the injectors don't fire. I've done the Bentley ecu/icu tests, and many other things, can't find a thing. :rant: Just...

Went to replace front rotors and calipers on my 240dl wagon, and noticed that the rubber brake lines were cracked where they entered the steel end fittings. Got the FCP Groton lines, which I would highly recommend (~$9 each, compared to $44 from the dealership), and went to take the old ones...

On my '88 240DL wagon, there's a small, L-shaped piece of plastic trim on the upper rear corners, near the hinges. It covers a weld going up from the gutter. Does anyone know if that weld line can be ground down and finished flat with the surrounding area safely? (I think the area looks better...

Has anyone bought parts from thevolvosite.com? They seem to have considerably lower prices then the local dealership, but it kinda sounds like many of the "thevolvosite" parts are non-oem. Does anyone have any experience with these people, positive or negative? Thanks, mike