Recent content by Lucky the Smiling Pirate

If you find that you are having an oil pressure issue, you can now add a second item to the checklist of likely causes besides "unseated oil pump orings." Apparently suction on the oil pumps is strong enough that if say...a piece of your dipstick handle broke off and feel down the dip stick...

Took an engine and trans from a beat 1991 740 shell, and put it into a nicer 1993 940 shell. Swapped over the computers too. When the engine and trans were in the 740, everything ran fine. It has an open down pipe atm. Since the transplant though, the car is basically undrivable. Under easy...

Lh2.4, throwing code 113. 65lb Delphi low-z injectors; fresh e85 fuel. Idles and cruises 10:1afr, under boost it leans out to 12:1 like it should. Fuel pressure is confirmed correct, wideband is offering lh the right signal as far as we can tell. Injectors May or may nit be spraying nicely...

LH2.4, 65lb injectors, e85 fuel, super minor vac leak at each of the throttle body bolts (still pulls 20inches of vacuum), no IAC, bov does not recirc, pcv vents to atmo. In park, it quickly ramps up like a saw tooth wave from 1100rpm to 1500rpm. In reverse or drive, the idle is stable at...

There's 4 "large" ones and a bunch of small ones. What are their class/model?

Every time I've ever pulled an engine I've always done it sans head, using head bolts as lift points. Now I'm about to hoist up my engine off the engine stand, attach a transmission to it, and then put that into the engine bay and I'm a little unsure of just where to hang the whole assembly...

http://imgur.com/zLMTb Left is what the parker store gave me when I asked for a steel, right angle, 1/4" npt to -4an thingy. Right is a -6an to 3/8"npt thingy. Middle is the plug that was in that front oil galley spot below the water pump. Unless the people at the parker store aren't giving...

Right, so I pulled the oil pump, from my old, ****ty/awesome bottom end and went to put it in my new, awesome/****ty bottom end and realized this thing was left in the old block, but that hte new block doesn't have one (it SHOULD stay on the oil pump since that's where it came from. Any way...

So way back when, JohnV offered a head stud kit for 8v and 16v people. The only difference between the two was that he provided some spacers for the "short studs" on the 16v head so that all 10 would use the same studs. I'm in need of a replacement nut from ARP but I have no idea what part...

Old thread: http://turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147468 Okay, so after a combination of letting Brett touch my car(a sad consequence of my ignorance), and a reputable machine shop basically ruining my block so the head gasket can't possibly seal against the deck, I kinda got fed up...

Well? Does anyone have some tips on doing this in a way that reasonably ensures the replacements wont pop out or leak?

Right, so after realizing that two of the hard lines in the coolant system had rusted through (and subsequently either replacing them or welding up the holes), the car still POURS out coolant if its running. Today I got around to figuring out why. Exhibit 1: In this image we see freeze plug 4...

So I have this newly purchased security shade/cargo cover and the mounts as well. The mounts attach to the interior of the car with 2 screws each. I hear there's a template of some sort to show exactly where to drill the holes. Does anyone have this template?

Can I use a '93 940 reciever drier? They're two bucks cheaper than the '92 740 ones on fcp's website but besides part numbers (and being photographed from a different angle on their site) they don't appear to be any different cosmetically. Honestly, all the AC parts (post r134 conversion) on...

so I'm pretty sure the AC compressor has been kicking on and off as recently has a month ago but it isn't now. None of the wiring leading to it appears to be damaged but in any case even a month ago when it was kicking on it took forever to get cold if it got cold at all. This leads me to...